Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
